Defaix's Chablis villages is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30-plus-year-old vines situated around Milly and Poinchy, on the left bank of the Serein River. The wine is fermented wild and aged on fine lees for ten months in glass-lined tanks. It's a floral and detailed wine for the level, and there's an intriguing interplay of texture and palate-cleansing freshness. There is beautiful citric liveliness and vibrancy in the mouth, with succulent fruit flecked with notes of greengage plum and a generous lick of oyster shell. So crisp, lemony and saline--so Defaix and so Chablis.